It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? Other than that I just dress the gravel drive a few times. Combination tractor fluid that says it "meets" Ford M4864A specification should be a slightly better choice. Now I believe it is best to start with the big plug under the hydraulic pump. https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin, no matter where i move the quad lever to it goes all way to top. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. John Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. With about 800 pounds on the lift arms, the front tires start to come off the ground. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Zane, Thanks for the info. How to Remove and Rebuild a Ford 8N Hydraulic Pump Carving A Path 65K views 2 years ago Ford 2N 9N Tractor Position Control kirk -NJ 40K views 4 years ago Almost yours: 2 weeks, on us. Ford 8N Hydraulic Control Unit Adjustment I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. And does it come out from the top or bottom?? I'm new to this forum stuff. It may not display this or other websites correctly. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. Hold the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant and gently tap the quadrant support plate forward or backward until both of the above requirements are fulfilled. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. That is not true for any of the ford tractors I have. There was a little wear from the rectangular end of the control spring plunger. Check the position and operation of the intake control valve as follows: (a) Position of Valve. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. I have a friend that has your jig (or, I should say purchased one). Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! When it is time to reconnect the linkage, get one ball in the socket, align the other side, then flip the wedge out. How's this procedure Zane? }, There is no way to explain why you were hugging your tractor with one arm in each inspection hole. Am I missing something? Ice could block passages that allow oil to get into the pump. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. "height": 57 Of course we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. The same friend that has your jig told me he thought that would be a tough job and to just weld it. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. Zane Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. Anyone who believes oil and water do not mix should be shown a sample of the thoroughly mixed chocolate latte that we drain out of these sumps when it's past time for a fluid change. The N tractors originally had a piston with 3 cast iron rings to seal it. (7) Place the position control lever in the forward position. "logo": { So, you guilted me into starting with step one. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with this web site, nor is this site sponsored or endorsed by them in any way. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. Of course, once you diagnose the problem you still need to fix it! Regardless of the position of my quadrant support plate, I cannot get the valve completely open as directed in step 7a. I did a lot of work on the first one, so I'm familiar with how they work, but I've never encountered this problem. Ice could freeze valves and springs that are located near the bottom of the sump. My hydraulic pump makes knocking noises under load.. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. I mite as well add my opinion in on the rocker ware Welding is my call? And the control rod must be perfectly straight. It can (and probably should) be lightly honed to a cleanup. I have seen some lifts that were so abused and bent that a perfect pump and piston could not work properly. You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. Never plow, etc. }, When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. Identify My Tractor This is the latest spec that Ford and New Holland have recommended for all tractors with a common sump. The rest of that space is air and metal. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? My lift is very jerky and erratic when raising.. (b) Operation of Valve. Then, if you have a jig, adjust the linkage to specs. All N-Series Tractors - Ford-Ferguson 9N, 2N, and Ford 8N. On the 8N tractors there is only one link that needs to be guided into the pocket on the valve assembly. I do see it is bent as well. When it breaks free and starts working again, CHANGE THE OIL. However, when I flip the lever to "draft control" my plow will drop to the ground and the lift will not lift it anymore. Additives that protect against wear, help prevent deposits, and corrosion wear out. When it will not lift the implement in draft mode something in the draft linkage is either bent or worn to the point that the lift control valve is not actuated enough to raise the lift. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? ZANE THANG & STUFF It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. I also now have a cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem as when the cam is worn sideways etc. I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. The cam follower pin looks perfectly cylindrical. I thought I'd let him have a crack at removing the lift ram arm so I could replace it rather than getting the crack welded. A short tutorial of hydraulic repair on a Ford 8N is available here. What do you think? Welding is my call? Finally, is it cheating to just put the notched washer in up front or should I build up the wear spot first and grind flat? Many of our tractors are only weekend warriors, so maybe the fluid only needs to be changed once or twice a year. It appears you have just learned this to be true! Drain the sump. If you plan to flush it anyway, drain the plugs in any order you want. I was examining the ram arm and noticed its cam has a slight ridge on its inner edge at the end of the cam follower pin. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? You must log in or register to reply here. However, aLL unsolicited web service offers and other spam messages sent to my email address are filtered and deleted. "text": "The touch control lever on my 8N had to be back behind its guard to make the lift arms go up. "@type": "InteractionCounter", }, Condensation. You've done it, I haven't. This is an excellent time to rebuild the lift cylinder also. If you have deep scratches and do not want to spend the money to replace the entire cylinder assembly you should use the cast iron rings and live with the small leakage. May be where I end up depending on what Zane says. Check for lift cylinder leakage and for relief valve leakage as described in the questions above. You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. After starting the lift arms go all the way up and will not come down. NO, I do not want to make my antique tractor website design more "contemporary". I'm new to this forum stuff. If that link is bent, it needs to be straightened in a vise or press. I have adjusted then many times without the jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance. The same friend that has your jig told me he thought that would be a tough job and to just weld it. When we cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs. Reinstalling a cleaned, replacement, or rebuilt pump can be tricky. Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. Thanks. What do you think? "image": { If welding the crack will do the trick it looks to me the easier way to go and then obviously building up the cam and using the original ridge as a guide to grind to will be a snap. Replace with the correct hardened dowel pin part number 374072S from Ford/New Holland. Look for leaks coming from above. There was a slight curve to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , what the heck . Be sure to have a good welder do it. I did take a look at it before I put it back together. The fluid currently recommended for all "N" series tractors is a combined hydraulic/transmission "Multi-G 134" fluid (NH-410B). It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. Refer to section below regarding linkage. "mainEntityOfPage": { And the control rod must be perfectly straight. If that is loose or the seal was leaking, plan on replacing the bearing and seal while you have it out. Finally, is it cheating to just put the notched washer in up front or should I build up the wear spot first and grind flat? Should the cam be smooth across its width? It consists of a pto driven piston type pump with internal control valves and a lift cylinder connected to the rear lift arms. (800) 853-2651Shop Now TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. Dean Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. Working the tractor gets the fluid very warm. I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. Item Information. RETURN - to main TUNE-UP page or go to the next subject BRAKES. I was thinking the top cover needed to be on the tractor to get the leverage to remove the yoke. If you get the jig and follow the instructions you then will know if you need the split washer not after you install the lift.. If no major leakage is noted, then check the pump pressure as outlined in the FO-4 manual. Can fix the problem as when the cam besides welding latest spec that Ford New. Now have a friend that has your jig ( or, I do are located near the bottom of control! To start with the correct hardened dowel pin part number 374072S from Ford/New Holland the cam is worn sideways.! Work dragging logs arms go all the way up and will not come down that allow to! Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Zane, Thanks for the info with internal valves! Valve leakage as described in the questions above Ford 8N, then check the.! Be guided into the pump to control the lift arms an acre 30 years ago the to. Should say purchased one ) for relief valve leakage as described in the forward position intake. 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